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                                  skateboarding dog, Manly Beach, Australia
Welcome to the online home of travel columnist Donald D. Groff, who has dispensed advice  and stories since 1988 in such publications as the Philadelphia Inquirer, the Newark Star-Ledger, The Kansas City Star, Newsday, Salon, Condé Nast Traveler, Consumer Reports Travel Letter, The Boston Globe, and Endless Vacation magazine.




Travel Questions

Q&A archive

Why cruising will never replace planes, trains and automobiles as the way to move between N.Y. and Fla. 

A note to Philadelphia Inquirer readers

Q: Is there any way I can go by sea to Fort Lauderdale , Fla. , to attend an October wedding, perhaps by hopping a cruise ship?  F.T., Maplewood , N.J.

A: The idea of shuttling between the Northeast and Florida by ship appeals to many people, but there is no simple ferry service and the alternatives are complicated, time -c onsuming, and expensive. Arriving in time for a particular date could be another obstacle. But if you are determined, there are a few possibilities to check.

Your idea of hopping a cruise ship is complicated by a U.S. law called the Jones Act that prohibits passengers on foreign flag vessels – and most big cruise ships are registered abroad – from boarding at one U.S. port and disembarking at another U.S. port without stopping first in a foreign destination.

Some itineraries would seem perfectly suited to you, except for that law. I found a 13-day Holland America cruise for October that departs from New York and pauses three days later in Fort Lauderdale before continuing into the Caribbean and circling back to conclude in Fort Lauderdale .  You could use that ship to reach Fort Lauderdale , but only by staying with it until its final stop. Most people would find that too much trouble and expense, unless they were looking for a Caribbean vacation at the same time.

“We are sometimes unable to allow passengers to take portions or segments of a cruise because it violates the Jones Act,” an online Holland America agent wrote. “Our marketing and planning departments do extensive research in arranging our itineraries to ensure our ships do not violate this United States Maritime law.”

Occasionally there are ships that leave a port such as New York , Philadelphia or Baltimore and stop in Bermuda before continuing to southern destinations such as Florida , but you would have to search for such an itinerary at booking sites or ask a cruise specialist to do that work for you.

Another possibility is a repositioning cruise. These cruises occur when the cruise seasons change, and for October travel you may find a ship crossing the Atlantic Ocean from Europe that makes a call in New York or elsewhere in the Northeast before heading south.  Last October, for instance, the Norwegian Jewel had an “Exotic Caribbean” itinerary starting in Philadelphia and ending in Miami . Whether you could board one of these depends on whether the line is willing let passengers book just segments of the cruise. This can happen if there is space available, but it depends on the line’s policies for partial trips and whether the booking complies with the Jones Act.

For a roundup of repositioning cruises, go to www.cruising.org and find the press releases section. Usually in August there is a notice that summarizes autumn repositionings. The cruise lines’ own sites note these, too; search for sailings in September and October.

Another possibility for moving up and down the Eastern coastline is aboard a smaller boat plying the Intracoastal Waterway . Companies such as the American Canadian Caribbean Line (www.accl-smallships.com) offer regular voyages with stops at many of the historic port towns.  These usually are not budget trips and often it’s a new port every night for 10 days or more.  Also, the itinerary’s start and finish probably aren’t going to perfectly suit where you want to start and end, requiring some land travel at either end.  One 14-night ACCL itinerary goes between Warren , R.I. , and Stuart , Fla. (near Jacksonville ).

You can find other possibilities through a site devoted to small ships, www.smallshipcruises.com.  Click on the “U.S.-East” link.

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  • Oregon's lodge hotels aren't mainstream -- and one even has a stream running through it (March 2006)

    • Q: We want to visit three of the big parks in Oregon with old lodge hotels. How can we go about making reservations for these grand lodgings? A.S., Shrewsbury, N.J. 
      A: That's a fine itinerary - these venerable lodges are a far cry from usual holiday lodging, and the ones you cite are positioned conveniently in or near three of the state's best attractions: Oregon Caves National Monument, Crater Lake National Park, and Mount Hood National Forest. 
      Oregon Caves and Crater Lake are in southern Oregon, about 126 miles and almost three hours apart. Mount Hood is in northern Oregon, about 233 miles and five hours from Crater Lake. 

      • The Chateau at the Oregon Caves National Monument is near the entrance to the park. The rustic and remarkable six-story building opened in 1934, with 23 guest rooms ranging from two-bedroom family suites to an economy room. A stream runs through the main dining room. The Chateau is 20 miles east of Cave Junction and open from late April through late October. Nightly rates range from $80 for one economy double to $135 for a family suite. This and other Oregon lodgings are subject to a 7 percent room tax. For reservations or details, call 541-592-3400 or visit www.oregoncavesoutfitters.com. The Web site for the national monument is www.nps.gov/orca.

      • Crater Lake National Park's Crater Lake Lodge - with dining room overlooking the lake's stunning blue waters -- originally opened in 1915 and reopened in 1995 after a major renovation. It has 71 guest rooms and is open from late May to mid-October. There are six types of rooms, with the currently posted 2005 rates ranging from $129 per night for a ground floor room to $248 for a two-bedroom loft. A "premium lakeside" room is $180. The 2006 prices may rise by as much as 3 percent, according to a reservation agent. Reach reservations at 541-830-8700, or visit www.craterlakelodges.com. The Web site for Crater Lake National Park is www.nps.gov/crla.

      • Near Mount Hood, about an hour east of Portland, is Timberline Lodge, a 70-room grandiosity completed in 1937 as a Works Progress Administration project. It is part of the well-known Timberline ski area. In the 1980 version of the movie The Shining, some outside scenes were filmed here. Five room categories range from $95 to $250 per night. The lodge is open year-round. Contact Timberline at (800) 547-1406, Web site www.timberlinelodge.com. The national park site is www.fs.fed.us/r6/mthood.


      If these lodges whet your appetite for similar hostelries, you have plenty of resources. "Great Lodges of the National Parks" was the topic of a PBS series that has a companion book and DVD, and a Web site at www.pbs.org/opb/greatlodges

      Another good source is The Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges, by David and Kay Scott (Globe Pequot, 4th edition, 2004). The fifth edition is scheduled to be in bookstores in March, 2006.  

       

  • Amsterdam has plenty of attractions for young visitors while their folks relish the tulip show

    • Q: We are considering a trip to Amsterdam next spring for the tulips, but wonder about attractions there suited to children under 12. Suggestions? C.M., Maplewood, N.J.

      A: Amsterdam has plenty of attractions for children, including the New Metropolis Center of Science and Technology, which has hands-on  computer and other exhibits; the Artis zoo, oldest in Holland ,  and the kid-friendly farm at Rembrandtpark.

      The book Amsterdam Made Easy: The Best Sights & Walks of Amsterdam, by Andy Herbach (Open Road Publishing, 2005), notes the Het KinderKookKafe – Kids’ Café – a cooking school just for children 5 to 12 (www.kinderkookkafe.nl); TunFun, a huge underground indoor playground with trampoline, slides, and construction area (www.tunfun.nl); and the Tropical and Children’s Museum, with re -c reations of villages from around the world (www.tropenmuseum.nl).

      The Netherlands Board of Tourism site at www.holland.com has a helpful link at Special interest/Family. You also can call 1-888-464-6552 – where a recording will tell you to go to the Web site

      Amsterdam has a Web site at  www.visitamsterdam.nl and a calendar for locating festivals or other events that appeal to the family. At the home page, click on Cityguide/Amsterdam for…/Kids.

       Tulip season in Holland begins in late March or early April and continues through mid- or late May. Mid-April is often the peak time, depending on the weather.

      Many flower observances take place in April, including the Bollenstreek  Flower Parade. The parade winds through the bulb region from Noordwijk to Haarlem , not far from Amsterdam , the Hague and Leiden .  A site with a flower calendar is at www.keukenhof.nl.

       

  • When the Cote d'Azur beckons, these guidebooks and Web sites have tested the red carpet

    • Q: With summer behind us, we’d like to look into traveling along the Cote d’Azur, stopping for two or three days in places such as Nice, Cannes and Monaco. Can you suggest planning sources? D.S., Elizabeth, N.J.

      A: Ah, yes, many of us feel pulled to the warmth of France ’s Mediterranean coast when the autumn chill kicks in (wink, wink), and fortunately the guidebook publishers are tuned in to our longings. Insight Guide: The French Riviera (Langenscheidt, 3rd edition, 2001) does a fine job of putting a photographic face on our storybook impressions of that storied coastline. Besides slick come-hither images, the contents are well-organized and the places most travelers are curious about are easy to find. The cover-flap index points you straight to nine “perched villages,” those lovely towns painted onto the hillsides above the sea. At a glance you can find descriptions of the museums devoted to Chagall, Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, and other artists and topics.

      TimeOut, the company that publishes city events guides, also offers the TimeOut: South of Fran ce, Provence & Cote d’Azur (revised 2004). Besides the coast, it covers a lot of adjacent inland territory. It doesn’t have the photo quotient of the Insight Guide, but it excels in the arts and entertainment category, things to do places to eat, drink, shop, and frolic.

      In the petit category, a good choice is the Provence and the Cote d’Azur book from the Knopf Mapguides series. It’s roughly 5 x 7 inches and just 3/8 inch thick, boiling down much of southeast Fran ce to its essence and offering eight fold-out maps. It fits easily in pocket or purse, the perfect take-along when lugging a larger guide is overkill.

      Many Web sites cover the Cote d’Azur as well, including www.guideriviera.com and www.businessriviera.com. At an official French tourism site, http://us.franceguide.com, you can select Riviera from the Where menu on the home page and find more than a dozen good links, including www.nicetourisme.com.   You also can inquire at the French Government Tourist Office hotline, phone 410- 286-8310.

       

  • Anchor management: The pros and cons of planning your own shore tours when your cruise ship is in port   (August 2005)

    • Q:  I recently booked a Mediterranean cruise that visits many ports in Italy and Greece.  The cruise line offers lots of sightseeing excursions in the $150-$200 range per person. Can you direct me to sources for arranging cheaper shore excursions, especially in Livorno, Monte Carlo, and Naples in Italy, and Athens in Greece?   M.G., Parlin, N.J.

      A: Shore excursions arranged by the cruise line are so numerous and expensive that if you’re not careful, you could end up spending more on excursions than on the price of the cruise, warns cruise authority Douglas Ward in Ocean Cruising & Cruise Ships (Berlitz, 15th edition, 2005).  It is indeed possible to arrange your own sightseeing – many people prefer that to group excursions -- but it requires planning.

      Prior to the cruise look at the cruise line’s offerings to provide a base line for cost and what’s covered. In touring on your own, it will help if you have some partners in crime. Once you board the ship, try to meet like-minded passengers interested in sharing the cost of a taxi or van.

      Several cruise guides include descriptions of popular ports and what there is to see and do during your day there, and places from which local tours depart.

      One such book is Insight Guides Mediterranean Cruises (Langenscheidt, 2004), which covers the ports you mention. For each, there is a list of the typical tours, then details on how to get along on your own. For instance:

      * Livorno – It’s the gateway to Florence, Pisa, and the Tuscan towns of Lucca and Sienna. The book describes how to reach Pisa by train, a 20-minute ride, noting that “taxi drivers are unwilling to take cruise visitors the short distance to Pisa unless you agree to a longer tour of the city or beyond. It is the same story at the Pisa station. . . . By afternoon, though, taxi drivers will be happy to take you back to the ship, either from or Livorno.”

      * Monte Carlo – “There are frequent trains to Eze, Villefranche, Nice, Antibes Cannes, which are alternatives to the organized tours and considerably cheaper than taxis.”

      * Naples – Three top sites are within a 15-minute walk of the cruise terminal – Castel Nuovo, Palazzo Reale, Teatro San Carlo. Pompeii and Sorrento can be reached by taxi or train; Herculaneum Capri is reached by hydrofoil.

      * Athens – Taxis get stuck in traffic from the port, so the metro rail service is a good option, and some cruise lines offer a shuttle to the metro station at little or no charge, with station stops near major attractions such as the big plazas and the Acropolis. Near the tourist office in Syntagma you’ll find coach tours to places such as Corinth and Delphi . “These will be cheaper than the ships’ tours, but be careful about time; only consider a full-day tour if your ship is leaving [the Athens Piraeus late in the evening.”

      Another book with a good self-guided tour tone is Cruising the Mediterranean: A Guide to the Ports of Call, by Larry H. Ludmer (Hunter Travel, 2002). It nicely covers all the ports you asked about, too, though its maps are less detailed.

      For price comparison, a company offering Italy shore excursions is Avventure Bellissime, Web site www.tours-italy.com. Look for “private/custom tours.”

      While a city tour with 50 other people probably won’t be as rewarding as your own customized tour, there are a few advantages to the cruise excursions. Besides the ease of booking, if the official tour bus is delayed, the ship won’t sail without it. Don’t expect that treatment if your private vehicle gets bogged down in traffic. The cruise tours also strive to have guides whose English is good.

      The official tourism site for Italy is www.italiantourism.com; for Greece, www.gnto.gr.

       

  • For a price, these companies will help you avoid the pain of lugging your own luggage  (July 2005)

    • Q: I have a knee problem and am worried about carrying my luggage to the West Coast for a cruise. I heard about a way to send one’s luggage ahead to avoid having to carry it. How can I find out more about this? V.S., Rockaway, N.J.

      A: Several companies are poised to lend a hand and spare your knee – or other body parts. And even those without infirmities might be tempted by this option.

      These firms tout the convenience of shipping your luggage ahead, and the airport security hassles of the past few years have been good for their business. Not only do you avoid having to heave your bags, but you also needn’t worry about standing in line to check the bags, or about security inspections of those bags.

      Some companies, like Sports Express, cater to golfers and other sportspeople who want to ship their equipment, but they generally handle regular luggage, too. You can also consider parcel services such as Fedex, Airborne and UPS.  In fact, the luggage shippers usually rely on parcel services to do the shipping, though they may have agents to make sure all goes well at both ends.

      Of course, you pay a price for that service.

      The companies arrange to pick up your bag at home or office and ship it to your destination, making sure it arrives at a hotel, cruise pier, or other stopping point. Not all companies deliver to cruise lines; some deliver only to lines with which they have partnerships.

      Rates depend on weight, number of bags, shipping distance, and how quickly you want them delivered. In our check for a 25-pound suitcase, one-way rates for the companies listed here ranged from $60 to $120.  Other variables may come into play, such as the pick-up point’s distance from the airport. One company was adding a fuel surcharge.

      While the prices may seem costly compared to the free baggage allowance on most airlines, they are not far from the excess- and oversize-baggage charges – around $80 per bag -- that many airlines assess. 

      You could save yourself some money by dealing directly with a company like Federal Express, but you still have to consider packaging requirements. Also, anyone shipping to a hotel should check with the hotel first to determine its policy on accepting such parcels.

      Among luggage shipping services are:

      * Luggage Express, phone 1-866-744-7224, Web site  www.usxpluggageexpress.com

      * Virtual Bellhop 1-877-235-5467, www.virtualbellhop.com. Luggage Express and Virtual Bellhop are both owned by Universal Express of Boca Raton, Fla.

      * Sports Express, of Durango , Colo. , 1-800-357-4174, www.sportsexpress.com

      * Skycap International, of Anchorage , Alaska , 1-877-775-9227, www.skycapinternational.com

      *Luggagefree, of New York , 1-800-361-6871, www.luggagefree.com

      Some  airlines, hotels, credit card companies, and cruise lines have partnerships with one or more of these companies, offering small discounts. Crystal Cruises has a partnership with Virtual Bellhop. Ask your cruise line if it has such a partnership.

      You can find partners at the Web sites of the shipping companies. New York-New Jersey-Connecticut cruise passengers departing from New York piers or Cape Liberty Cruise Port , Bayonne , have another, deluxe way to free themselves from the burdens of luggage. Liberty Moving & Storage in Hauppauge , N.Y. , will deliver a “portable closet” for your wardrobe and other belongings. You take your time packing, and a day or so before your sailing the company picks up the loaded wardrobe and delivers it to the cruise pier.  After the cruise, the company gathers the closet from the ship and returns it to your home.

      The base rate is $260. For details, call 631-234-3000, ext. 234, and ask for Mike.

  • For low-price summer lodging in Montreal, study the residence hall option at McGill University (June 2005)

    • Q: In early July we will be near Bangor , Maine , and plan to drive west to Montreal . We’d like to stay outside the city and take public transportation in for sightseeing.  Can you offer any suggestions, given our moderate budget? B.G., Summit, N.J.

      A: The idea of staying outside a city -- for less congestion and less expensive lodging – and relying on public transit is a worthy one, but in Montreal there is a summer alternative that might be better.

      McGill University has several residence halls that rent rooms to the public from May 15 to Aug. 15 while students are away.

      Among them are the Bishop Mountain residences and the Royal Victoria College residences. The Bishop Mountain rooms are a 15-minute walk from downtown at the foot of Mount Royal , a Frederick Law Olmstead-designed park with trails and other attractions. Royal Victoria College borders McGill’s downtown campus.

      A limited number of double rooms are available at the rate of $390 Canadian per week or $65 Canadian per day, plus 15 percent tax.  That totals $459 Canadian and $75 Canadian, which at a conversion rate of 83 U.S. cents to the Canadian dollar amounts to about $382 per week/$63 per day. The rate at Bishop Mountain includes continental breakfast.

      You can reserve by calling 514-398-5200, or writing to McGill University Residences, Attention: Summer Accommodations, 3935 University Street , Montreal , Quebec H3A 2B4 . Other university residences are available as well; they are described at www.mcgill.ca/residences/summer.

      Recently doubles were still available for early July, but anyone who hopes to take advantage should book soon as the Montreal Jazz Festival is June 30-July 10 (www.montrealjazzfest.com) and the rooms always fill up, according to a residence agent.

      You still can park your car and rely on public transportation. From the Bishop Mountain Residences buses operate to the Sherbrooke and other metro stations.  The Royal Victoria College residence is just steps from the McGill station.  A map of the metro system is at www.stm.info/English/metro/a-mapmet.htm.

      The tourism site for Montreal is at www.tourisme-montreal.org.  Click on the link called “Tour the Underground Network” for a map of the city’s underground passageways, beginning at the McGill Metro Station.  Click on “Great Parks of Montreal” for a preview of Mount Royal Park .

      The site also has a good lodging section, with other campus space as well as a search function that can sort by neighborhood and other types of accommodation.

      A printed guide to visiting Montreal can be obtained by calling 1-877- 266-5687.  

  • If you have an Irish pub crawl in mind, these guides will help you plot your itinerary (Feb. 28, 2005)

    • Q: For a trip to Ireland, where can find some planning information on pubs and events scheduled during out visit? H.D., Springfield, Pa.

      A: You can get a good start with your pub itinerary at the Irish Pub Guide site, www.irishpubguides.com, which has links to information on pubs with dining, pubs with accommodations, and pubs with traditional Irish music. You can research pubs based on the counties you'll be visiting. If you want to do some pre-vacation intelligence gathering, you also can locate Irish pubs in the United States through this site.

      Another sources is World Food: Ireland (Lonely Planet, 2000), which has a 23-page section on the traditional Irish pub, including an etiquette guide: "The rounds system - the simple custom where someone buys you a drink and you buy one back - is the bedrock of Irish pub culture. It's summed up in the Irish saying, "It's impossible for two men to go to a pub for one drink."

      The guide also advises "the best time to introduce yourself to an Irish pub, especially in Dublin, is in the midafternoon, after the lunch hour scramble and before the post-work evening rush."

      Among sources for events information are:

      * Tourism Ireland in New York, phone (800) 223-6470, Web site www.tourismireland.com. A related Irish tourism site is at www.ireland.travel.ie.

      * Dublin Tourism has a site at www.visitdublin.com that includes pubs in the "Food & Drink" section. 

      * County Cork, in southwest Ireland, has a site at www.cork-guide.ie.

      * Shannon region pubs and events, including those in Limerick, are at Web site www.shannonregiontourism.ie.

  • Baja beckons to seniors and everyone else who wants to know nature • Edinburgh can make a short side trip from London -- if you've got stamina
     
    (Jan. 30, 2005)

    • Q: My 80-year-old father saw a broadcast about Baja California and is hot to vacation there with my mother, 75. I'd like to put together a trip for them - what travel sites I can visit to begin planning? F.C., Philadelphia

      A: The Mexican peninsula known as Baja California, or just "Baja," is one of today's hot destinations. Los Cabos, at the southern tip, has been swelling with tourists for the past decade as more resorts have opened.

       Fishing and golf are big pastimes. Eco-tourism continues to draw sea life fans along both the Pacific Coastline and the Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez. Baja beckons many young outdoor sports enthusiasts, but the 900-mile-long peninsula also appeals to active seniors, many of whom retire or spend winters there. In early December, San Felipe salutes the arriving RV crowd with its Snowbird Welcome Festival. 

      Just off the presses is the fourth edition of the guidebook Hidden Baja, by Richard Harris (Ulysses Press, 4th edition, 2004), which calls attention to Baja's popularity with seniors, noting that "the only real drawback to Baja travel for seniors is the absence of medical facilities in many areas."

      Elderhostel, the reasonably priced travel and education program geared to those 55 and older, has several Baja travel programs coming up in January and February. Details are at www.elderhostel.org,
      or call 1-877-426-8056. Apple Vacations, based in Newtown Square, offers packages to Los Cabos; visit www.applevacations.com

      Among Web sites, Baja.com (www.baja.com) offers news, events, and background. Tour companies can be found through the Activities/tours link at www.loscabosguide.com. (Los Cabos, "the capes," refers to Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo, the tourist corridor in between, and the East Cape.) An interactive map of 24 cities from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas is at www.bajalife.com, a site affiliated with a slick magazine aimed at visitors. The map leads to many tour operators.

      The Los Cabos tourist board site is at www.visitloscabos.org, where one section describes land tours, bay tours, and eco-tourism. A printed Cabos guide can be ordered by calling 1-866-567-2226.

      The guidebook Baja California (Lonely Planet, 5th edition, 2001) notess many special interest tours available, including agriculture, astronomy, biking, horseback riding, surfing, snorkeling, whale watching, windsurfing, and RV touring. More than 30 tour companies are described. (The 6th edition is due in February under the title Baja & Los Cabos.)

      For one man's extensive views of the Baja persona, the book Baja Fever: Journeys Into Mexico's Intriguing Peninsula (Mountain N' Air Books, 1999) is a combination personal travelogue and guide based on the travels of author Greg Niemann over a period of decades, up through the late 1990s. 

      Q: My wife and I will be spending a week in London and would like to take two days to see Edinburgh. Is this feasible, or too much in a short time? M.K., Newton

      A: It's certainly possible to take a two-day side trip to Edinburgh from London, but if your whole trip is just one week, consider a closer side show. (A few suggestions in a moment.)

      Still, if you are determined, energetic, and start early and return late, you could get a taste of the Scottish capital and have plenty to talk about when you return home.

      Here are recommendations for top things to do from www.edinburghguide.com: Visit Edinburgh Castle, watch the sunset on Calton Hill, visit the National Gallery of Scotland, walk in the Royal Botanical Gardens, go to a club or ceilidh, visit the Britannia (a huge royal yacht), drink whisky, go to the theater, and ride a bike.

      Still interested? Here are travel options:

      * Flying between London and Edinburgh takes about 1 ¼ hours, plus time getting to and from the airports. Many flights are available, including some very low fares thanks to the no-frills airlines. A check of easyJet's site at www.easyjet.com show many fares available for late May for 13 pounds each way - about $24 - and that's a great deal even with the British pound valued at almost twice the U.S. dollar. 

      * An express train takes about 4½ hours, departing from London's Kings Cross station. The second-class one-way fare is $162, pricier than it once was owing to the poor exchange rate for those with dollars. BritRail has links on its home page, www.britrail.com, for day-trip and overnight trip packages to Edinburgh.

      * An overnight sleeper train takes about seven hours. This could be a fun option if you're able to sleep easily on a train. If not, you'd be weary for your Edinburgh whirl. Sleeping berths are more costly. The train leaves from London Euston station.

      The Scottish Tourist Board Web site is at www.holiday.scotland.net; click on the "Edinburgh City Breaks" link or visit www.edinburghcitybreaks.com for extensive guidance. Edinburgh's official Web site is at www.edinburgh.org.

      Another option to save yourself effort is to contact a travel agent. Trained agents who specialize in Scotland are listed in a free guide available from VisitBritain, phone 1-800-462-2748.

      The VisitBritain site, www.travelbritain.org, can steer visitors toward specialized agencies as well. Select "plan your trip" and "contact a travel agent." 

      As for alternatives to Edinburgh, here are a few spots within a couple hours of London by train that make good day or overnight trips: Bath, Brighton, Greenwich, Stratford-Upon-Avon, Windsor and Eaton, Brighton, Canterbury, Tunbridge Wells.

     

  • Getting from Newark Liberty International Airport to Philadelphia by rail • Planning a tour of baseball stadiums in the coming season (Jan. 8, 2005)

    • Q: A friend from Europe is flying to Newark international airport en route to Philadelphia. What transportation is available between there and Philadelphia? J.B., Ardmore

      A: For your friend or anyone else arriving at Liberty Newark International Airport with scant luggage, one of the easiest ways is AirTrain Newark, the monorail that opened in 2001 and carries travelers about 10 minutes to the airport rail station located on Amtrak's Northeast Corridor line. From that station you can catch Amtrak trains to Philadelphia 30th Street Station or, at less cost, New Jersey Transit trains to Trenton, where your friend can transfer to Septa's R7 train. The R7 reaches 30th Street Station after 11 intermediate stops. 

      For Amtrak trains, tickets can be bought from machines at each terminal's AirTrain station or from machines at the airport station. (There is no separate charge for riding the monorail from the terminals to the airport station.) Amtrak fares may vary depending on timing and type of booking, but typically the Newark Airport-Philadelphia trip takes one hour and costs $54 one-way. AAA and other discounts are available. The schedule with discount information is online at www.amtrak.com,or call Amtrak at 1-800-872-7245. The Amtrak booking code for the airport station is EWR.

      Using NJ Transit is more complicated and time-consuming, but costs less than half the Amtrak method. These tickets also are available through the machines. Newark airport to Trenton takes about one hour and costs $12.65. Travelers should take a nonstop train on the Northeast Corridor Line; about 40 operate each weekeday between the airport and Trenton. (Avoid the NJ Coast Line trains, which would require you to transfer at Rahway in order to reach Trenton and add to travel time.) At Trenton, transfer to the R7 line for the final leg to 30th Street Station; the trip costs $7 and takes about 50 minutes.

      AirTrain details can be found through www.airtrainnewark.com. The Newark airport's number is 1-888-397-4636; press 54 for the AirTrain recording, which does not have fare information. For NJ Transit, call toll-free 1-800-772-2222; press 0 to reach an agent.

      Other ways to reach Philadelphia are described at the Newark airport site found at www.panynj.gov.
      Click on Liberty Newark then select "Getting to and from" and "transportation options." A short section is devoted to Philadelphia, including van service with Dave's Best Limousine (phone 1-800-255-2378), which costs $50 one way.

      Q: I would like to do a tour of major league baseball stadiums. Where can I get help researching such a trip? A.B., Bala Cynwyd

      A:
      At least two guidebooks are targeted to fans like you:
      * The Ultimate Baseball Road-Trip: A Fan's Guide to Major League Stadiums, by Joshua Pahigian and Kevin O'Connell (Lyons Press, 2004)

      * Baseball Vacations: Great Family Trips to Minor League and Classic Major League Ballparks Across America, by Bruce Adams and Margaret Engel (Fodor's Travel, 3rd edition, 2002)

      Another book you can have fun with is Roadside Baseball: A Guide to Baseball Shrines Across America, by Chris Epting (Sporting News, 2003). It features former sites of famous ballparks, baseball museums, baseball plaques, statues of great players, birthplaces, final resting places, and more trivia.

      One company that helps organize pilgrimages is Roadtrips, based in Winnipeg, Canada. It arranges three-day trips to any of 30 major league ballparks, as well as multicity, multi-game baseball tours. Call 1-800-465-1765 or visit Web site www.roadtrips.com.

      The official Major League Baseball site, with links to all the teams, is at www.mlb.com.

  • Canoeing in Minnesota doesn't have to mean hefting your own canoe • Student-friendly Oaxaca and a superb medical guide to Mexico (Oct. 3, 2004)

    • Q: We are two couples who want to go canoeing for a week or so in Minnesota. Can you suggest outfitters, guides and other sources for planning such a trip? P.D., Swarthmore, Pa. 
      A: Minnesota is famous among canoeists for its Boundary Waters Canoe Area along the Canadian border and for other lake and river destinations, including the headwaters of the Mississippi River. Scores of outfitters are available to either do most of the guiding and heavy lifting for you or help you plan an independent trip.
      Your group of four also could be teamed with a few other travelers - parties are limited to nine for Boundary Waters trips. One outfitter said in such cases, travelers tend to help each other during portages.
      A thorough listing of Minnesota operators is at the state's official tourism site, www.exploreminnesota.com. From the home page, click on Activities/Outdoor activities/Canoe outfitters. Among them is Boundary Waters Canoe Outfitters in Ely, which says it can outfit a trip including food and camping gear starting at $40 per day. Its phone number is 1-866-365-3201, Web site www.boundary-waters.com.
      Another company is Wilderness Inquiry, based in Minneapolis, which offers guide services and package trips in Boundary Waters Canoe Area, Voyageurs National Park, Itasca State Park, Superior National Forest, and elsewhere. Get details by calling 1-800-728-0719 or visiting Web site www.wildernessinquiry.com.
      Many canoe-trip companies that are based outside Minnesota but offer trips there can be found in the America Outdoors Outfitters Directory and Vacation Guide, available free by calling 865-558-3597, or online at www.americaoutdoors.org.
      A guide to Minnesota canoeing packages and outfitters is at www.paddling.net/trips (select Minnesota in the regional search window). 
      As for published guides, here are a few:
      * Paddling the Boundary Waters and Voyageurs National Park, by James Churchill (Falcon, 2003).
      * Paddling Minnesota, by Greg Breining (Falcon, 1999).
      * Canoeing the Driftless: A Paddlers Guide for Southeastern Minnesota, by David J. Lind (1stBooks/AuthorHouse, February 2004).
      * Boundary Waters Canoe Camping, by Cliff Jacobson (Globe Pequot, 2nd edition, 2000).

      Q: My teenage son is going to spend a few months in Oaxaca, Mexico. What safety concerns should we know about? J.K., Philadelphia
      A: Don't worry. Your son is fortunate to spend an extended time in Oaxaca, capital of Oaxaca state, 240 miles south of Mexico City, a place free from the tourist hordes of, say, Cancun. In his book Live Better South of the Border, Mexico authority Mike Nelson says of Oaxaca: "If you want to get away from it all, this almost as far away as you can get. … It has been called the craft capital of Mexico." He compares it to Berkeley, Calif., or Austin Texas - a place where political thought is sometimes expressed in demonstrations. He considers the town very conservative and advises watching your wallet in the markets.
      Explain to your son the safety precautions one should observe regardless of destination: avoid wearing flashy jewelry and traveling alone in high-risk areas, being especially vigilant in places such as bus and train stations and tourist zones.
      The State Department's consular information sheet does not cite Oaxaca City in its safety warning section, although it does mention occasional demonstrations. You can find the full report online at http://travel.state.gov/mexico.html.
      You and anyone who wonders about staying healthy in Mexico should know about a new book called Mexico: Health and Safety Travel Guide, by Robert Page and Curtis Page (MedToGo, 2004). Many guidebooks pay lip service to such concerns; this guide addresses them to a remarkable extent for destinations all over the country. 
      The Oaxaca City section bluntly says: "By North American standards Oaxaca's hospital and medical-care system is antiquated and technologically limited. There are sufficient services for the routine treatment of mild to moderate medical problems, however we did not find adequate emergency services . . . . "
      The book names the best places to go for medical aid and recommends English-speaking doctors by name. It even shows their photos and provides locator maps to their clinics.
      A good online tourist guide is at http://oaxaca-travel.com. Another can be found through www.visitmexico.com.
      Top

  • Zeroing in on a reasonably priced hotel near St. Mark's Square in Venice; how to get a good hotel deal on the road to the Outer Banks. (June 2, 2004)

    • Q: For a trip to Venice, our tour company is suggesting an outrageously priced hotel near St. Mark's Square. We like the convenience, but are considering finding a less-expensive outlying hotel and shuttling in to Venice each day. Is this a practical idea? L.D., Media, Pa.

      A: You note that with the dollar weakening against the euro, your trip will cost you 25 percent more than you anticipated. Staying in a cheaper hotel on the periphery is a common tactic for keeping down costs, especially when there is easy, inexpensive transportation such as a rail line. 

      But I posed the question to Italian lodging expert Margo Classe, who quickly discouraged the idea in the case of Venice. She said she had never spoken to anyone who had used that strategy and was satisfied.

      Classe, author of Best Budget Hotels in Italy (Wilson Publishing, 3d edition, 2002), said the last daily train away from Venice leaves relatively early and that St. Mark's, for instance, is about a 45-minute walk from the train station. So it could be done, but it could mean giving up a large part of your evening in the city and forgoing the carefree nighttime strolls that are the stuff of movies.

      Forty-two Venice hotels are reviewed in the book, including nine near St. Mark's Square. From those, Classe recommends you try these favorites of hers, in descending order. Prices vary, but a room for two people for most of these is 130 to 190 euros in high season - about $150 to $225 at an exchange rate of one euro to $1.19. Each of these accepts some major credit cards and English is spoken. (Dialing from here, precede phone numbers with 011-39.)

      * Serenissima: Calle Carlo Goldoni 4486, phone 041-5200011; Web site www.hotelserenissima.it. Thirty-seven rooms, all with toilet and bath or shower.

      * San Giorgio: Rio Terà Mandola 3781, phone 041-5235835; e-mail hotelsangiorgio@tin.it. Sixteen rooms, all with toilet and shower. 

      * Locanda Fiorita: Campiello Nuovo, Santo Stefano 3457/A, phone 041-5234754; Web site www.locandafiorita.com. Twenty-one rooms in three buildings, 17 with toilet and shower.

      * Ai Do Mori: Calle Larga San Marco 658, phone 041-5204817; Web site www.hotelaidomori.com. Eleven rooms, nine with toilet and shower.

      * Gallini: Calle Verona 3673, phone 041-5204515; e-mail hgallini@tin.it. Forty rooms, all with toilet and bath or shower. 

      Besides hotel reviews, the book has excellent practical advice gleaned from Classe's personal visits. Don't assume a hotel will hold your luggage after you check out; many won't. She also recommends getting a multiday pass for riding the water taxis. And she says the romance of a balconied room wears thin if it overlooks a busy thoroughfare. So take earplugs. 

      Q: I am traveling to the Outer Banks with three small children and want to break up the trip. Can you suggest economical places to stay halfway? C.O., Philadelphia

      A: If you use I-95 for the bulk of your drive, the distance from Philadelphia to Kitty Hawk, N.C., is 415 miles and Richmond, Va., would be a bit more than half way. You can locate inexpensive lodging in advance through the Web sites of several "interstate exit guide" coupon publications.

      One is the Traveler Discount Guide, part of a family of similar publications whose Web site is at www.roomsaver.com. The site lets you search by state and route, and you can find many of the same deals and print out coupons.

      The printed version is available for a few dollars by calling 1-800-332-3948. You also can find the guide free at service stations and interstate rest stops. Once you reach Virginia, you could pick one up, calculate where you want to be at the end of the day, and select a hotel whose price and location is suitable. Rates of $40 to $60 per night are common; the day of week is sometimes a factor.

      Since you are traveling with children, also ask about family rates, which some hotels offer. But generally you cannot combine discounts. Top

  • Planning for Brittany, land of rugged coastline and ancient towns; renting a house for a Grand Canyon holiday.     (May 13, 2004)

    • Q: For a trip to Brittany, France, in mid-June, can you suggest literature and other information about touring the area? J.S., West Orange, N.J.
      A: Brittany is located in western France - it's the peninsula southwest of Normandy region. Normandy and Brittany often are paired in travel guides, and you can expect that this summer's 60th anniversary of the Normandy Invasion will send many side-trippers to Brittany as well. (The main D-Day ceremonies are June 5-6; www.normandy-dday.com.)

      Brittany is known for its rugged coastline, ancient towns, wooded interior, and islands. It was a Celtic duchy for more than a thousand years before becoming part of France in 1532, and that Celtic history, along with sea, heavily influence its character.

      "Its attractions lie most obviously along the coast, which, speckled with offshore islands and islets, makes up over a third of the seaboard of France," says the Rough Guide of Brittany. "In parts of the north, and in the western region of Finistère, the shoreline can be nothing but rocks and cliffs. . . . But elsewhere . . . it is caressed by the gentlest of seas, the sands rambling for kilometers or nestled into coves between steep cliffs."

      Among top guides to the region are Brittany and Normandy, by Greg Ward (Rough Guides, 2003); Brittany (DK Publishing, 2003), part of the Eyewitness Travel Guides series; Insight Guide Brittany, by Brian Bell (Langenscheidt, 1999); and the Michelin Green Guide to Brittany (Michelin Travel Publications, 3rd edition, 2002).

      Web sites to check are those of the Western France Tourist Board at www.westernfrancetouristboard.com; the Brittany Tourist Board at www.brittanytourism.com; and the French Tourist Board site at http://us.franceguide.com. To find events in June, go to the calendar at the Brittany tourism site. It's tricky to find. At the home page, click on Events/Fetes and Festivals. Then click on another Events link at the left, then Calendar. 

      This month, there is a big event in Nante, at Brittany's southern edge: A big flower show, the Floralies Internationales, is underway now through May 17. The Floralies is held at five-year intervals and has 25 international sections in the Parc de la Beaujoire. Web site: www.comite-des-floralies.com.

      To set the literary stage for your visit, consider Legends and Romances of Brittany, by Lewis Spence (Dover Publications, 1997). The author, a folklorist, has compiled stories of sprites and demons, tales of the black arts, Arthurian romances, stories of the saints of Brittany, and more, plus background on the land and people.

      Q: My family would like to travel to the Grand Canyon next November. We would like to rent a house. I'm concerned that homes on the Web won't turn out as promised. Is there a reputable agency that rents private homes? J.S., Trenton, N.J.
      A: Renting a house in the immediate area of Grand Canyon National Park area is uncommon - there aren't many homes to rent, owing to the lack of development adjacent to the park. Missing are the many condo developments and vacation homes of family vacation hot spots such as Orlando. What you have instead are many motels, hotels, lodges and campgrounds.

      One source that does have a couple of houses about 15 minutes from the South Rim is Arizona Vacation Rental Homes (phone 928-522-8228), whose offerings can be viewed at www.arizonavacationrentalhomes.com. One is five bedrooms, the other three. The larger goes for $175 per night, $850 per week during summer. 

      Owner Trish Meredith said it is best to book well in advance; some people make reservations as far as a year ahead and the schedule is largely filled for this summer. A one-night deposit is required to hold dates. Credit cards are accepted. Meredith said she can provide references from past renters. She also said the houses are close enough to each other that large parties can rent both houses together.

      As for rentals in general, there are many reputable agencies that arrange vacation homes in Arizona and elsewhere, and the Web has become the primary way that many brokers and owners publicize their properties. Whether dealing with a company or individual, the key is to be appropriately cautious before sending a check or providing a credit card number. Find out how long a broker has been in business and what trade groups, if any, it belongs to. You also can check for complaints with a local chamber of commerce or better business bureau. For a first-hand report, ask to be put in touch with a prior renter, and inquire about deposit and cancellation policies.

      A Web site called VRBO - Vacation Rentals by Owner - has thousands of homes around the country, including additional photos of the two mentioned above. It's at www.vrbo.com. It has dozens of other Arizona rentals, including a few in Flagstaff, which is a couple of hours south of the Grand Canyon.

  • Paving the way for a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela; single travelers have more resources available than ever.  (April 24, 2004)

    • Q: I am planning a pilgrimage on the Road to Santiago across northern Spain in the summer of 2005. Can you direct me to any travel groups with whom I can hike with or other sources of information on the route? M.V., Mendham, N.J. 

      A: Many people regard the pilgrimage to Santiago as one of the first big moments in mass tourism, originally undertaken in the 11th Century along a network of routes through France and Northern Spain, ending at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. A French monk even wrote a guidebook to places to stay and eat along El Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James or the Pilgrim Route. 

      With that long history, much information is available for anyone planning to hike or otherwise tour the 500 miles of the pilgrimage route that are in Spain. At the Tourist Office of Spain site at www.okspain.org, click on Special Interest/Routes/Way to St. James. You can also reach the tourist office at its New York branch at 666 Fifth Ave., phone 212-265-8822. The office also has the names of companies that sponsor pilgrimage tours. These companies provide support, including meals and transporting your belongings from point to point. 

      One such company offering tours for walkers as well as those who prefer wheels is Saranjan Tours, phone 800-858-9594, Web site www.saranjan.com.The company is offering a 14-day Pamplona-Santiago-Madrid trip from June 19 to July 2 for a dozen walkers, priced at $3,550 per person, based on double occupancy. Deluxe tours are scheduled for May 8-21 and Sept. 18-Oct. 1, priced at $4,550 per person, based on double occupancy. Saranjan also can help plan custom trips.

      Among guides with good sections on Santiago and the pilgrimage are The Rough Guide to Spain, by Mark Ellingham and John Fisher (Rough Guides, 10th edition, 2002), and Spain, by Damien Simonis et al (Lonely Planet, 4th edition, 2003).

      Q: I've recently become a single traveler. Are there any reliable sources for agencies that specialize in travel for singles? I am particularly interested in travel within the United States, as well as cruises. D.L., Plainsboro, N.J.

      A:
      Several organizations, books and Web sites can steer you toward tour companies and other businesses that welcome solo travelers. 

      One straightforward source called Connecting: Solo Travel Network is a network of travelers interested in finding comfortable and economical ways of traveling alone. Connecting offers a Single-Friendly Travel Directory listing more than 250 travel companies and organizations whose services and pricing are sensitive to those traveling without a partner -- including some that do not charge a single supplement. The directory costs $5 (electronic version) or is free with an annual membership of $45 (or $28 for an online membership) for six issues of a newsletter. A sample issue is $5 from Connecting: Solo Travel Network, 689 Park Rd., Unit 6, Gibsons, BC V0N 1V7, Canada. Credit card orders: 800-557-1757; Web site www.cstn.org.

      The book Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations, by Eleanor Berman (Globe Pequot Press, 4th edition, 2003), is packed with suggestions for single travelers and offers many kinds of general advice.

      The book Single's Guide to Cruise Vacations, by Jacqueline Simenauer and Margaret Russell (Prima Publishing, 1997) describes which lines appeal to certain types of cruising singles. Although somewhat dated, it remains a good primer.

      The Web site IndependentTraveler.com offers a section on single travel. From the home page at www.independenttraveler.com, under Travel Resources, select Lifestyles then Solo & Single. 

      Another online source of resources, including companies offering cruises for singles, is the Travel Alone & Love It site at www.travelaloneandloveit.com. It is affiliated with a book of the same name by Sharon B. Wingler (Chicago Spectrum Press, 1996).

  • Navigating toward a canal boat holiday in Ireland; can you expect to vacation with mosquitoes in Jamaica?   (April 15, 2004)

    • Q: Having recently read about barge vacations in England , I wonder if similar trips are available in Ireland. J.H., Philadelphia

      A: Indeed – Ireland claims to have some of the longest navigable waterways in that part of the world, and dozens of companies offer water-borne holidays by barge, houseboat, and cabin cruiser.

      Ireland’s main waterways are the River Shannon, the Shannon Erne Link, the Erne Waterway, the Grand Canal, and the Barrow Navigation. They connect a network of canals, lakes, rivers and inlets, and many waterside villages are available for mooring, day tripping, and nighttime visitation.

      You can find a map of the waterways at the Europe Afloat site,  www.europeafloat.com/ir.htm. The interactive map links to companies that offer barge and houseboat rentals. Click on the Royal Canal, Grand Canal, and River Barrow portion and up pops a list of 10 boat-rental companies.

      Another site to peruse is Waterways Ireland, www.waterwaysireland.org, where the “About the waterways” link provides descriptions, including one for the Shannon Erne Waterway, which has its own site at www.shannon-erne.com.

      An even better site is www.a1.ie, where the “Boat companies” produces 15 boating firms and a listing of marinas. The Tourism Ireland site has a good section of cabin cruising at www.tourismireland.com.

      According to Tourism Ireland, cabin cruisers are generally rented on a weekly basis and the boats have two, four, six or 10 berths. Costs vary by season, size and amenities, but the rates range from about $925-$2,800 in low season, higher during the summer.

      Q: Our family will be vacationing in Jamaica this summer. On TV, we saw a Jamaican home and the bed was enclosed in mosquito netting. Besides sunscreen, do we need to pack mosquito spray? J.C., Philadelphia

      A: Yes – take along insect repellent and some soothing cream. You may not need them, but Jamaica’s climate and topography are right for mosquitoes and many visitors report encounters, despite resorts’ efforts to control them.

      However, the mosquitoes do not pose a malaria risk, according to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention. Visit www.cdc.gov and click on the Travelers’ Health section for the rundown on insect-borne illnesses in the Caribbean. It also has advice on preventing mosquito bites, including wearing long sleeves during the times of day when mosquitoes are most active. In Jamaica, that is usually around dusk.

      For first-hand accounts from travelers to Jamaica, visit the TripAdvisor site at www.tripadvisor.com. Search for Jamaica, then within the results for your resort or the area where your resort is located.

  • The challenges of finding work while spending a summer in Rome; how to pick a cruise ship that has programs for the whole family.    (March 19, 2004)

    • Q: For a summer in Rome, how can I obtain information on finding a job there? D.P., Huntingdon Valley, Pa.
      A: Finding work in Italy is no holiday for most visitors. Like many other countries, Italy is not keen on having foreigners take skilled jobs that otherwise would be filled by its own citizens. You can find good advice on what to expect in the Italy chapter of Work Your Way Around the World: The Authoritative Guide for the Working Traveler, by Susan Griffith (Vacation Work, 11th edition, 2003).
      Being able to speak at least some Italian is almost essential, and if you seek work through legal channels, the red tape is daunting. Still, many others have tried and the book provides examples of failures and successes, including the possibility of teaching English.
      If you don't already have friends or relatives there, find some. "Contacts are even more important in Italy than in other countries," writes Griffith. "Many of the people we have heard from who have worked in Italy have got their work through friends."
      Another good source is Work Abroad: The Complete Guide to Finding a Job Overseas (4th edition, 2002), published by Transitions Abroad magazine, which also publishes the Alternative Travel Directory: The Complete Guide to Traveling, Studying and Living Overseas (Transitions Abroad, 7th edition, 2002). You can learn more about the magazine and its publications at www.transitionsabroad.com.
      Another source is The Back Door Guide to Short Term Job Adventures: Internships, Extraordinary Experiences, Seasonal Jobs, Volunteering, Work Abroad, by Michael Landes (Ten Speed Press, 3d edition, 2002).

      Q: I am looking for a cruise for my family, including children ages 7, 8 and 10. What are our choices? J.M., Elkins Park, Pa. 
      A: At least eight major cruise lines offer children's programs: Carnival, Celebrity, Cunard, Disney, Holland America, Norwegian, Princess and Royal Caribbean International. The ships' programs for children generally are available for those 2 to 17 years old.
      A good source for learning about the programs is the May 2002 issue of Consumer Reports Travel Letter, which focused on family cruising and compares those programs. Although the newsletter stopped publication about a year ago, single copies of the May 2002 issue are available for $5 from Consumer Reports, 101 Truman Ave., Yonkers, N.Y. 10703. (If you order, note the cruise article.)
      A travel agent experienced in booking family cruises is your best source, especially if you have not cruised before. Locate a good agent by asking friends for recommendations or searching the phone directory under "travel agents" or "cruises." The home page of the Cruise Lines International site, www.cruising.org, has a zip code search for finding cruise specialists.
      Travel agents have cruise schedules, but you can find them yourself by going to the Web sites of each line. 
      Here is contact information: